The highlight of the menu is the Curry Fried Chicken (Plate, $9.99, Piece, $1.49), which is simply unique. It takes more than a few minutes to make, so don’t wear your “where’s the fast food, I gotta go now” pants, or you’ll get them in a knot. Even though the fried chicken is available in individual pieces, it is better as one of the dinner options. It’s a whole meal, unlike the wraps, which are à la carte. The chicken is tender and flavorful, and when you finish, you suddenly notice that your mouth is quite hot—but you don’t notice while eating it. Neat trick. I don’t eat fried chicken very often, but this is pretty awesome. Chicken fingers don’t compare. This is fried chicken you haven’t had before. The spices are romantic and old-world.

The dinners come with a side of what the menu calls Super Basmati Rice (a side, $1.99), which isn’t too misleading. Sharing the plate is a chopped vegetable salad beside some light curry of potato or other carb. The sides are worth the time to savor. Each time I got a dinner here, I looked forward to seeing what extras would be on the plate that day. They were always different, and always considerable.

Hummus ($1.99) is a barometer for the sensibility of any kitchen that takes the trouble to make it. The hummus here is sharply flavored, but not garlicky. It appeared at the table as an island of sunbleached yellow with a generous drizzle of leaf-colored oil. A bit more pita would be nice, though, because I hate to have to ask for more bread.

Of all the items on the menu, only the Chicken Keema Kabob plate ($9.99) didn’t beat my expectations. A service of minced chicken and spice made into patties, fried and served with pita, it passed me by, like Stallone, or Scrubs.

Curry Fried Chicken. Call it an oasis in this hamburger and french-fry desert state, or a phone booth for your foodie superhero. Just know, when you need it, you can get there. Be ready to come away topped up with good food, wholesome and handmade. Renewed, you may continue now, on your journey to greatness.