A castle separates the rich from the poor with towers, walls and guards. A speakeasy separates the hip from the square, with secrecy, passwords and hidden entries. Bodega, and its underground, vault-like restaurant/bar, The Rest, are separate, but they let all the customers be hip. Upstairs at Bodega, there are affordable shots, priced-just-right beer, handheld food and a jovial atmosphere—very different from its secret downstairs cousin. If you haven’t made a reservation, you must ask to be admitted to The Rest (dress up before you come here, as it’s a nice joint and you should look the part). I’ve come here before without a reservation, but only on off nights and earlier in the evening. The two rooms are cozy, and they fill up as the hours progress. If admitted, proceed through a plain door and down a wind of office-style stairs to another nondescript door behind which the light changes and the air grows more worthwhile. I enter this dark space and feel … lighted—it is “The Bar.” It’s the bar I want to find in the basement when I walk down those last stairs of this life, impossibly tall yet claustrophobic enough to make drinking and lovely friends into dreamlike memories. The bar room and tables are darkly lit, and in the back is a grotto-inspired library with conspiracy-sized seating arrangements.